Domaine Long-Depaquit : latest tasting notes by Allen Meadows (Burghound.com), october 2009
- le 9 November 2009
- Par Isabelle Dijoux
- Dans News, Seen in the press
0

Chablis Grand Cru ‘Moutonne’ Monopole 2008 _ (2.35 ha monopole that spans a parcel of vines situated in both Vaudésirs and Preuses though 95% of it is in Vaudésirs. The site is protected from the wind and often gives very ripe wines; 10 to 15% wood). A discreet hint of pain grillé does not interfere with the clear expression of the lemon, floral and quinine aromas that precede textured, concentrated and attractively fresh and impressively scaled flavors that possess a seductive mouth feel on the precise, tangy and very powerful finish. A potential knock-out. (92-95)/2014+
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’ 2008 _ (from a 2.5 ha parcel; ~25% wood averaging 3 years of age). Here the wood treatment is a bit more obvious, highlighting very fresh floral aromas nuanced by iodine and tidal pool notes that can also be found on the rich, full and relatively powerful sleekly muscled flavors underpinned by almost aggressive minerality on the textured finish where the tension-filled finish. In a word, terrific. (92-94)/2014+
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Blanchots’ 2008 _ (from 40+ year old vines raised in ~15% wood). A wonderfully elegant and refined nose that displays airy and pure aromas of lemon zest, white flower and wet stone that are trimmed in a discreet application of wood before being followed by intense and chiseled flavors that are beautifully concentrated and blessed with excellent dry extract levels on the sappy and balanced finish. This is an exercise in purity and is really quite impressive. (90-93)/2014+
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Vaudésirs’ 2008 _ (15-20% wood). A ripe, cool and pure nose of wet stone, sea water, oyster shell and floral aromas slides gracefully into dense, serious and concentrated medium plus weight flavors blessed with fine mid-palate fat and plenty of extract that buffers the firm acid spine on the attractively persistent finish. This is certainly very good but it lacks the same level of complexity as the best of these grands crus. (90-92)/2013+
Chablis Premier Cru ‘Les Vaillons’ 2008 _ (mostly from Epinottes with the balance from Séchet; 10% wood). A very subtle hint of oak sets off notes of white orchard fruit, acacia and tidal pool notes that are also picked up by the rich and full mineral-infused flavors that possess good volume on the intense, tangy and punchy finish. This is relatively open and highly complex already and should be approachable young. (89-92)/2011+
Chablis Premier Cru ‘Les Beugnons’ 2008 _ (this could also be declared as Vaillons). Interestingly, the hints of brioche on the lemon and floral nose suggest that there is wood present but this was raised in 100% stainless, which marries into full-bodied and very rich flavors that possess a textured mouth feel and excellent intensity on the lingering finish. This is not quite as refined as the Vaillons but it’s not far off either. (89-91)/2012+
Chablis Premier Cru ‘Les Lys’ 2008 _ An elegant, pure and lacy nose features white flower, pear and oyster shell nuances that gives way to refined, rich and generous flavors that retain a fine sense of focus and detail on the balanced and harmonious finish. This is a lovely wine of subtlety and grace. (89-91)/2012+
Chablis Premier Cru ‘Les Vaucopins’ 2008 _ (raised in ~15% wood). This is also layered and pure with stylish and high-toned aromas of sea water, iodine and white fruits that merge into round and rich flavors that are perhaps not quite as obviously concentrated, all wrapped in a persistent finish of solid intensity and balance. This is presently not as complex as the Les Lys but the material appears to be here to allow it to develop it. Benefit of the doubt offered. (89-91)/2011+
Chablis 2008 _ A very fresh and bright nose of citrus, white flower and sea breeze leads to delicious, punchy and nicely concentrated middle weight flavors that possess good if not truly special depth and length. A fine villages. (87-89)/2011+
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Moutonne’ Monopole 2007 _ (2.35 ha monopole that spans a parcel of vines situated in both Vaudésirs and Preuses though 95% of it is in Vaudésirs. The site is protected from the wind and often gives very ripe wines; 10 to 15% wood). An expressive nose carries a subtle touch of wood that frames notes of lemon, oyster shell, white floral and strong mineral reduction that serves to introduce rich, full and classy flavors that are bold, authoritative and deep with that fine quality of underlying tension and simply huge length on the iodine and citrusy finish. This is a truly vibrant and palate staining wine. In short, this is a real stunner. 94/2013+
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’ 2007 _ (from a 2.5 ha parcel; 30% wood averaging 3 years of age). Noticeable but not invasive wood sets off an intense nose of pure and elegant white flower and lemon peel aromas that are in keeping with the round, rich and quite full broad-shouldered flavors that possess outstanding precision and plenty of minerality on the stunningly long finish. A terrific effort that should age for years. 94/2014+
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Blanchots’ 2007 _ A background nuance of wood frames airy and cool aromas that are ripe and largely floral in character but with nuances of sea breeze, iodine and quinine that complement well the intense minerality of the strikingly intense and delineated medium full flavors that possess impressive depth and length on the notably dry and tangy finish. There is good volume and mid-palate fat that prevents this from being overly austere. 93/2013+
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Vaudésirs’ 2007 _ (15% wood). Here the nose reflects moderate wood influence but not enough to detract from the otherwise ripe, pure and solidly complex aromas of spice, tidal pool and saline aromas that precede big, muscular and fullbodied flavors brimming with both dry extract and plenty of minerality on the textured, sappy and palate staining finish. Like the ’08 version, this is certainly very good but lacks the same depth of the finest of its grands crus counterparts. 92/2013+
Chablis Premier Cru ‘Les Vaillons’ 2007 _ (mostly from Epinottes with the balance from Séchet). A floral and notably spicy nose that is admirably pure leads to detailed, round and generous flavors that also possess good volume and mid-palate density with reasonably good underlying tension and much better depth and length than it displayed last year. A balanced effort that should reward short to mid-term cellaring. 91/2012+
Chablis Premier Cru ‘Les Vaucopins’ 2007 _Vaucopins has to be one of the most under rated of all Chablis 1ers as well as one that embodies much of what makes Chablis so special. A subtle and equally restrained citrus blossom and green fruit nose that is elegant, expressive and layered is followed by intense, precise and detailed flavors brimming with both minerality and the classic oyster shell notes that ultimately culminate in a driving, energy-filled finish. Despite the elegance of the nose, there is no mistaking the muscled nature of the flavors but rather than just being big for the sake of volume, the flavors are precise and taut. Lovely stuff that should age well over the medium term. 91/2012+
Chablis Premier Cru ‘Les Lys’ 2007 _ Elegance is quite often the strong suit of a typical Les Lys and this ’07 displays this character abundantly as the restrained yet high-toned, airy and pure nose highlights citrus blossom and dried white rose notes that give way to round and relatively approachable middle weight flavors that possess beautiful balance on the harmonious and rather understated finish. The purity here is impressive and the overall impression is one of unusual sophistication. 90/2012+
Chablis Premier Cru ‘Les Beugnons’ 2007 _ (this could also be declared as Vaillons). Here the nose is slightly riper, indeed to the point where there is a mild exoticism to the otherwise fresh and rather floral aromas that introduce rich, full and robust flavors that are slightly less elegant but more powerful, all wrapped in a slightly longer and austere finish. I like the persistence but this is simply not as refined. 89/2011+




